Wonderful Edo - Alivia and Tori turning Japanese '09

Language

2009-06-21T23:20:00.000-07:00

I love different languages and have studied a few.

Spanish - I lived in guadalajara in grad school. I got quite good, was even able to have an argument with our landlord entirely in spanish.

French - spent my spring semester, junior year in Paris. Loved it. My french was okay. helped me when I traveled to Monte Carlo

Japanese - I took a Japanese business class. I learned how to say thank you and my name is victoria, nice to meet you - Watsishi wa Victoria san des, doso huroshiku. used it in manchu picchu of all places as there were Japanese tourists there. they spoke to me rapidly but alas i could not understand them. I used it a little bit in Japan, but couldn't say much

Russian - i took a russian studies class from my favorite teacher of all - Ludmila Brott

Chinese - i am taking with my son Trace in 2009

Funny thing is, when I am in a different country and i don't understand the language, i revert to a mix of spanish and french, but predominately french. It is perfect because then no one can understand me, even myself ;-)

Mesclo todas las palabras en espanol y francais.

June 20th, To Alivia -It was the best trip ever. (sung to Sponge Bob Squarepant's song "best day ever")

2009-06-20T17:15:00.000-07:00

Dear Alivia -

Let me be the 10th one to welcome you to Utah. and yes it is a state and their are no leprechauns.

I have been planning this trip for over two years now and i honestly at one point wasn't sure it was going to happen. You were so understanding when I had to cancel last year, but then again you have always been gracious and mature beyond your tender years.

I just want you to know that i would not have wanted to have made this trip with anyone but you. The fact that you are teaching yourself Japanese and want to experience the world and are open to so many different and unique experiences makes you a wonderful traveling companion. It also delights me that you enjoy the things I do and that you are not living in fear and being sedentary. Nothing can stop you with that attitude. You will go very far and don't ever let anyone tell you that you can't or let them stand in your way. This world is yours for the taking.

I want you to know that I am so glad that I could be the first one to take you on your first international trip. I am so glad that we experienced Japan for the first time together! It was an amazing and life altering trip for me. (It is by far, hands down, the best trip I have ever taken)

I know this trip won't be the last time either one of us goes to Japan and i also know this won't be the last time we take on the world together. I look forward in great anticipation to what either of us will do next, either in tandem, or separately and sharing what unfolded.

As my wise iPod Mahjong game says (yes it list 72 asian proverbs, how funny that inspiration comes from that)

--Chinese proverb - a dog won't forsake his master because of his poverty: a son never deserts his mother for her homely appearance.

Oh wait, that is the wrong one :-). Here they are -

- GREAT SOULS HAVE WILLS. FEEBLE ONES HAVE ONLY WISHES.
- BE CALM AND TRANQUIL IN YOUR PURSUIT OF THE FINEST THINGS.

You can do anything ONCE you set your mind to do it, even if you have to do it by yourself... don't ever let anyone say you can't or get in your way. no one.

Where to next? I can't wait to find out!
I love you
Tori

Itinerary for My Next Trip to Japan

2009-06-20T17:05:00.000-07:00

- On my next trip, i would like to visit when the cherry blossoms are blooming. Here else is some of the stuff I would like to do.

- Stay in a Machiya again
- go see the pearl divers
- See sumo wrestling match
- eat kobe beef
- see a samuri and/or ninja
- see a geisha
- tea ceremony
- travel in a rickshaw
- go to an onsen, a spa retreat - high end

In Tokyo
1) Visit the Snowdome museum and make one!
2) Stay in Shinjuku or perhaps a more upscale place - really liked the hotel though, very central and comfortable
3) Shibuya - People watching
- take a stroll in the afternoon to see all the teenager's outfits. Go to 109 Department store - a totally surreal mall for that cohort.
- Walk around on a saturday night It is the busiest neigborhood, famous for all the millions of people crossing the street.
3) Harajuku - People watching
- Walk down pedestrian only Harajuku street. (Sort of like St. Marks, NY through a looking glass.)
4) Go to Shingawa
5) Go back to Odaiba - the water front at dusk see the rainbow bridge, and ferris wheel (largest in the world)
6) Try/eat a okonomiyaki - translates to stuff you like, cooked together. It is a traditional way of eating where the table has a built-in-grill and you cook it yourself. It is across between a pizza and pancake.
7) go to the red light district see a little of the local color
8) go back to roppongi and mix with the ex-pats
9) go see the big Hello Kitty near the Isetan store, this is not to be confused with the Hello Kitty Precious section in the Isetan store itself. http://www.sanrio.co.jp/shoppinginjapan/english/shop/recommend.html#shop1
10) New York Bar in Park Hyatt - hotel from lost in translation. I am told that the view is amazing and expensive. Requires reservations. Drinks and appetizers are good.
11) Shinjuku park if cherry blossoms are blooming
12) Takashimaya food store
13) Lumine avoe south entrance, mocchi ice cream to die for.

Outside Tokyo
1) Ride the JR500, the fastest train in the world
Osaka - the Venice of Asia.
2) Kyoto - stay in the Gion district, explore more of the markets etc. Do not want to stay long though, felt very touristy.
3)Nara - biggest Buddha in the world
4) Nagano
5) Go back to Nikko - stay there
6) See Mt. Fuji - take a tram, the rope pulley
7) Beppu - supposedly the Las Vegas of Japan and very cheesy. Tutu and Grandfather went there.
8) Kamakura train station for the best saki, Taiyou zakari product of Niigata

June 20th Last day in Japan

2009-06-19T16:10:00.001-07:00

Our Trip to Japan was amazing and action packed. We literally did not stop and in hindsight, though I would not change a thing, it was a tad aggressive. (But hey that is me! I just wanted to experience as much of Japan as i could and we did everything that was on my agenda. Thanks to Alivia and her patience and excellent subway/train navigating skills.) Our last day was just as agressive and action packed.

I decided much to Alivia's chagrin that i wanted to go to Hello Kitty for a couple of more gifts and to try to take a picture in front of the largest hello kitty in Japan. We were all packed and left our luggage at the front desk, where to stay one hour later i had to fill out a form and become a member for no charge. Crazy but I did it as I didn't want to have to spend a lot of time at the airport if we got there early and i didn't want to have to lug our luggage around which had grown substantially.

We left the hotel around 10:00a, our train was at 12:30 and our flight was at 3:40p, so we were in good shape. The first stop was takashimaya. I love the NY store and the one in Japan was amazing.

We waited outside for the doors to open. We then proceeded upstairs to the "japanese" section of the store, where i found the most beautiful Dragonfly fan. So appropriate, just lovely and delicate. It had the bold, dark colors and soft brown undertones that reminded me of my Tutu. I had been looking for one all along, but all i could find where pastel ones and they seem weak to me, not as vibrant or as "strong". I am so glad I waited, it was just meant to be.

After finding the fan, we went down to the basement where the famous food center is. We found all our favorite sweets, mochi balls, crepe cake, there were samples galore. I even at a display by accident, much to the embarrassment of my niece. It is also a full grocery store, where we bought fruit for $40 bucks. Not kidding, the japanese have to import most things, so it is very expensive to find fresh produce. I didn't help that we were in one of the most expensive stores on the island too. It was worth it however as I also found POG in a can. The sweet, corn-syrup nectar of hawaii. I had never seen it in cans. It is something that reminds me of Maui, my Tutu, and Grandfather, my whole family, good times, rest, love, Trace; it just seemed like another symbol that my Tutu was with me, as I always feel she is.

So we had had an exceptional run in takashimaya and we were all set to go, when I felt there was just one thing, one more thing, that we had to do which was get a picture with the largest hello kitty in Japan. I just thought it would be a great picture for Brynn, who loves hello kitty. So i had to go as I didn't want to leave Japan with anything feeling unfinished which is one of the reasons I made sure we went to all the places we did even if it was overwhelming and exhausting.

Unfortunately, I could not find the hello kitty store we were looking for. We went around and around, but never found it. I did go back and get several gifts I wanted at several of the other hello kitty stores we had previously been too, but the other one, where ever it was, openly mocked us as I could not find it nor could anyone assist us. The searching ate up a lot of time and now, instead of having plenty of time on our hands we were running late. so we headed back to the hotel and picked up our things, but the adventure was far from over.

I had been under the impression that it would only take us an hour to get to the airport, and that trains run their regularly, which would have gotten us there two hours beforehand. Instead it actually takes about an hour and a half. this is when i started to stress which was the only other time i had been under stress other than kyoto. We headed through the JapanRail booth and i picked up tickets. We made it to the track with about 15 minutes to spare and that is when i realized i had forgotten my sunglasses somewhere. Now normally i wouldn't care as much as i did, but these were prada glasses, costing about $400. I looked at Alivia and told her that i thought I had left them at the JR booth and that i was going to run back and get them. The look on her face was one of amusement and fear.

I took off running. People just stepped out of my way. It looked like a bad commercial. I finally made it to the counter and asked if she had seem my sunglasses. she smile sweetly and said yes they had them. She then went back and brought out paperwork to fill out. I was incensed they just saw me there with my sunglasses couldn't they just give them to me? she answered no so i filled out the forms while all the staff just watched and smiling that polite, infuriating smile.

finally i had my glasses and i flew back. Fortunately when i was heading over I found a shortcut, as I know i would not have made it back without it. When i arrived Alivia was relieved to see me but had to stop me as I was trying to board the wrong train. A few minutes later our train arrived and we were off.

The train ride was smooth and so much different then the one we took when we arrived. That was a rickety, local train, we were on the shinkinsen now. (I just love their rail system) I tried to relax but we were cutting it really close and I didn't want to have to pay to change our flight if we missed it; all because of hello kitty. Alivia was able to sleep. I just grit my teeth.

We finally made it to the airport and we had an hour to spare. Alivia and i both ran like carl lewis. Fortunately there were not real obstacles and alivia, who got very good with navigating Japan's transportation systems, helped us make good time by not letting me get us lost. We really were a good team and she is an excellent traveling companion. We made it to the ticket counter. I tried to check in but because i changed my name my passport can not be scanned. My heart jumped again, but we were soon helped and checked in with about 40min to spare. (You now have to be at the airport at least 45min before a flight or they won't take your luggage and unless you are going to abandon it, you also cannot take the flight. This is what stressed me out the most; that we would get there and would not be able to check our luggage)

Once we were checked in I calmed down and we made it to the gate and they were already boarding. All in all, it was perfect as we had very little downtime in the airport and i got to do all i wanted in Japan.

June 17 -part 1 Hiroshima the destruction is amplified by its surrounding beauty

2009-06-19T07:43:00.001-07:00

This morning we left Tokyo and made our way to kyoto. Alivia and I are staying in Machiya which is a traditional japanese house that I found online. (www.kyoto-machiya.com)I was convinced that I was saying it like it was spanish, but they told me my pronunciation was pretty good. We found our way pretty easily from the Kyoto station in the light. (this is a writing technique foreshadowing the problems we will experience later.) Cameron met us, one of the people who work at the Machiya, and his english and japanese were both impressive. (I think he was british)

We dropped off our luggage and then we were off to Hiroshima. Now it may look close on the map, but it was actually about 2 hours away from Kyoto. (we covered a lot of ground. almost going the entire length of Japan) Fortunately we were on the express bullet train, so it was a pretty painless journey.

At hiroshima station, we misunderstood when they said to get number 2, we though the bus, they meant the tram. The first of many mishaps. We navigated our way to peace memorial park. we walked through the park which was lovely. We saw the tomb, where they put all the names of those who died. We saw the eternal flame that will not be extinguished until there is no more war. We also went to the children's park. It is quite famous. It is inspired by a little girl named Sadako who contracted Leukaemia after the bombing. At 10 years of age, she decided to fold 1000 cranes which are a sign of happiness and longevity. She never completed her task but her school mates did. Her quest received international recognition and cranes still arrive from all over the world. It made me cry to think of her suffering. Especially after seeing my Tutu suffer through cancer. I also think having a small child gives you a new perspective as it is just unbearable to think of a life, a one that has barely begun to live at that, suffering.

From there we made our way to the peace bell. You can go up and ring it. It is truly haunting. ( i love all the little chimes/ gentle sounds that are prevalent through Japan.) Anywhere inside the park you can see the A-dome. Just above it the bomb exploded. It looks like an Italian ruin. A hallow shell with some walls. The dome itself is a skeletal structure of twisted metal, though it is pretty much in tact. We sat in front of it for awhile and then made our way back to the bus to go to catch a ferry to Miyajima.

When we tried to get the bus, we realized we were a bit lost. Japanese people are so polite. The say yes to everything and really do try to help. the problem is they help even if they have no idea where to send you and since Japanese and English have no commonality, it can be very hard to communicate. This is why they always recommend if you are lost to talk to students as they most likely have some english speaking skills since they have to study it. But alas I digress.

We were told so many directions, when finally two women took us under their wing. They showed us the tram stop, which we had missed and realized there was a #2 bus and a #2 tram. After that we were golden. We took the tram to the little train station and bought Japanese donuts. Good but a little yeasty. Once you start traveling to miyajima you start to see the beautiful seaside. The surrounding area was beautiful and both alivia and i agreed that this was our favorite part of the trip. We took a ferry, the only one that is run by the JR line and included in our pass, and it was a tranquil, beautiful ride. It was such a juxtaposition that we just saw at the park and quite a different experience than the pirate ship. It did not feel overtly touristy just serene like you were experiencing a special taste of Japan. We did not get off of the ferry, we did not have a lot of time as we were hoping to get back to Kyoto before dark. We did see the island which has very tame deer roaming the streets. It was beautiful.

Thank heaven for 7 eleven

2009-06-18T16:54:00.000-07:00

international atms
ubiquitous
american

June 17 -Part 2 Hiroshima and getting hella lost in Kyoto. Our Machiya - old world style - modern amenities

2009-06-18T16:51:00.000-07:00

After the ferry ride, we made our way back to Hiroshima more smoothly. remember we now know to take the tram. We were on our way to Kyoto. Unfortunately, we got on a local train and not the express, so it took us at least 3 hours to get back. This is the first time I was visibly and physically stressed in Japan. First we said we would be back before dark, it was now 9:00pm. We were not familiar with the city so had no relevant landmarks to guide us to get to our machiya. The machiya we were in is quite charming, but not a major hotel so it is hard for cab drivers to find. It is actually on a small one way street and up an alley. Oh boy.

At the connecting train station we stopped a woman who helped us as i wanted to call the machiya so they knew we were coming and not to go home. She was very friendly, turns out she studied dentistry at NYU such a small world. She was sweating profusely, it was very comical (she is my japanese version of claire). She was a godsend. And i do mean that. (Everywhere we went we were guided by an invisible force. It has been very comforting and i am convinced it is my Tutu. She is here with us and even now as i write I can feel her hug me and i am smiling.) She got a hold of the machiya and alerted them that we were on our way. She called me victoria-san, which was is a sign of respect and we thanked her profusely. Unfortunately she missed her train helping us, but I am convinced good karma is on her way.

Once in kyoto we grabbed a cab. The driver spoke no english and tried to drop us off on a random street was "close" to our home. I refused to get out of the cab until he took us to our front door/alley. He got very upset, but nothing looked familiar there was no way that i was going to put alivia and i on the street, in a strange town, no matter how safe Japan is and how pissed off the cab driver got. We made him go around, as i gestured pretending i was using a steering wheel and pointing. Finally we were completely lost and you could tell he new it too. I asked him to call, we had cards for the machiya in english and japanese, but he refused, so I flagged down someone on the street as our cab driver was trying to evict us. Another godsend he go the machiya and they told him where to go. We arrived in front of the office and there was cameron. I have never been more thankful or happy to see someone. We paid the cab driver and Cameron said it was smart we did not get out. All the streets look the same, narrow, extremely narrow like paris, and one way.

Cameron walked us over to our house and we loved it at first site. A traditional japanese house with sliding doors and a garden. He oriented us and then had me sign a rental agreement. it seems that they have to act as a real estate company as they are not a hotel, not a ryokan (which i did not want to stay in a communal setting) and are not up to fire standards, the stairs are traditional and extremely steep and the door ways are low, nothing I didn't know. They had me sign an entire agreement in Japanese. I may have signed away my first born, sorry Trace it has been a great ride. We then took a tour and he set up the wireless, the air conditioner and the mosquito repellent as we are getting into the rainy season. Just asked us to watch our head, to not turn on the hot plate as they have had accidents before (read: fire), how to use the mircowave and he left.

The house is just stunning. Japanese caligraphy lines the walls. a small, but pretty rock garden when you look at it through the sliding doors. A cedar bathroom that smelled wonderful with a big cedar bath. A toto toilet that did everything for you, including blow drying your but. (one unique thing after you flush the tank fills up by a porcelain spout that extends outside the toilet and like a faucet refills the tank.) A sunken kitchen with a fridge. the whole house is a beatiful rich dark wood. The stairs are very steep, it is almost like you are walking vertically. The best is the bedroom, with the tatami beds on the floor. they are draped, as was the hotel on the regular bed, with a large fabric sash that makes the bed look like it is gift wrapped. By then we were so exhausted so went to sleep. and all and all i can say the agony, the fear of being lost was worth this special experience of staying in a traditional style home.

Ah the Japanese Sweets, Milk tea and food - enough said

2009-06-18T16:27:00.000-07:00

I thought I would come here and Alivia and I would eat healthy...sushi everyday. Instead it is my worst nightmare or maybe my ultimate fantasy. (there is a fine line between love and hate) There are sweets EVERYWHERE. My favorites:

**Mocchi - i love those sweet rice balls, like the red bean the best. Prefer them to not have anything in them. They even have them on a stick, covered in chocolate or carmel.
**Crepes - there is a large french influence here, a boulangerie on every corner. not bad, but not french
**Creme puffs - made to look like swans, etc. Yummy. Papa Beard in NY is an extension of those, though i haven't seen one in japan yet.
**Crepe cake - multi-layered. Just like the one you can get a takashimaya in new york. I got one at this little coffee shop down from the hotel across from Shinjuku station - Cafe Miyama. Excellent and i got my milk tea too (Love that milk tea). On the last day i finally made it inside takashimaya and purchased a slice from there too! Speaking of takashimaya they are all over town and the stores are HUGE.
Jello drinks - Alivia had a strawberry one. I didn't like it so much, but her being from utah love them.
strawberry shortcake - not like our traditional US version, but delicious all the same. Sponge cake and fresh strawberries.
Green tea pastries in green tea wraps.
Momiji manju - maple-leaf shaped cakes.- can get them fresh in asakusa - very hot (like the crispy creme donuts in the US) and even better ones in Hiroshima near the miyajima port. So fresh filled with chocolate, creme, red bean paste and green tea. Bringing some home.
Calpris - my favorite soft drink ever!. i don't know what is in it, but it is opaque and has a grapefruit taste. - turns out it is soda, dried milk and sugar that is fermented. so delicious.

Japan Public transportation - what didn't we conquer

2009-06-18T15:27:00.000-07:00

Alivia and I have traveled on every transportation system (subway, shinkansen -fastest trains in the world - trace knows them from his train books- bus, tram and walking, lots of walking) in Japan except a rickshaw and what they call the rope ride which are the pulleys that take you up mountains - which i guess we will have to do next time. (there is one in Kakone, but it was fogged in so not worth it so didn't see mt fuji.) What we have learned and traveled on.

1) get a Japan Rail pass. You have to get one outside the country. Completely worth if you plan on leaving Tokyo. Can use inside tokyo and travel anywhere in the country. Saved me hundreds of dollars. Also used it on the ferry in miyajima, ended up there by accident but was well worth it.
2) you can get reserved seats (if you book through JR offices) do not spend the extra money to upgrade. You can also hope on any train non-reserved, but you may not know which ones are express so we tried to get ours through the offices.
3) get day passes, wherever you go. You will save money even if you don't think you will use much transportation. Would have saved a lot in Tokyo in the first few days if had used them. lesson learned.
4) Never get on the Nazomi - it doesn't take the JR pass.
5) skip taxis they are expensive, you can get anywhere with their mass transportation system.

Tokyo - subway and JR trains. There are three different, major train lines in tokyo. You can't go in between them on one pass. We had JR pass for 7 days so did not activate until i knew we would be doing our major traveling. next time will get day pass in tokyo for subway. you can get anywhere on that. If it doesn't take your day pass, it isn't the subway. that is how you will know. Get a map for all the trains, it is best if they are layered on each other. Once you activate your JR pass, you can pretty much get anywhere so don't have to use the subway again. Big money saver.
Kyoto - bus is best, subway is limited. Buses are set-up for tourists so very easy. can't use JR pass.
Hiroshima - use only tram (#2). Can go anywhere in Hiroshima on 150 yen. don't get on the bus. Very few people speak english, it is for the locals and much more costly. Can also use JR line but will miss the memorial peace park which is worth seeing. Get back on tram to go to miyajima which I highly recommend. Can use JR pass for ferry, then get on JR train. (You will pretty much have seen hiroshima now) will take you pack to the major station)
Hakone JR train to bus to pirate ferry (not kidding). Beautiful country but eerie as was fogged in.
Nikko - JR train, loved it the place.
Kamakura - JR train

Talking Pictures in Japan - It is mario time

2009-06-18T14:56:00.000-07:00

For some reason every Japanese student, wants to take a picture with us. They all have required english classes in junior high and high school, so they are told to practice when seeing americans. It is quite comical. One thing I noticed is that every picture you take with a teen, they make a victory v with their hands. Just like when Mario finishes a game. I am a dork or as they call us now GiiK.

June 19th - Japanese M&M's and Mario

2009-06-18T14:32:00.000-07:00

Most mornings, i have been able to, through, iChat video, see and talk to Trace! (Thank you technology.) This morning was particularly fun as he started asking what I was bringing back from Japan for him. He said are you bringing lots of Mario and I said yes. Ironically, I can't find much Mario anywhere in Japan. A few figurines and a couple of t-shirts, but you can get them anywhere and the t-shirts cost about $50. Nintendo is huge, lots of DSLites, but it seems their heart is for anything Hello Kitty and Pokemon. Go figure. So I am probably going to have to buy some stuff when I am back in New York. Again go figure.

In addition to Mario stuff, Trace wants candy, so I bought him some Japanese, M&Ms. He was so excited that he want to have some immediately. I pretended to throw them at the computer camera and when I did, Craig stood behind him and threw some M&M's so it looked like they were coming from me. Trace had such a good time with this and it really looked like they were coming from the computer. He then tried to throw something back at me, my odometer, and didn't understand why it wouldn't go through. We told him things could only go one way. Too funny. Thank goodness kids are so stupid ;-)

Toilets in Japan - Toto I don't think we are in Kansas anymore.

2009-06-17T14:41:00.001-07:00

What is up with Japan's fascination with Toilets. There are restrooms everywhere...western style with the throne that we are all use to, and Japanese style toilets that are basically a porcelain ditch in the floor. I have to say they have enthralled me and wish there were more like them in the US.

The main brand is Toto and they even have a museum of toilets in Tokyo. We did not go, maybe next time, but fortunately there are everywhere but unlike in a museum these you can acutally touch. (Trace would love all of this, as almost every other word is poop, such as poopy head, poop ice cream, poop on you...you get the idea) You would think that there is not much you can do with a toilet...but I challenge our simple, unimaginative toilet repressed culture...Japan, as always is on the leading edge. Features (all of which are activated by the touch of a button)

Heated Seat
Deodorant feature...not the inferior tidy bowl product, but an actual button you push that perfumes the air
a bidet
a shower
music, very soothing
flushing sound (not sure why they need an artificial flushing sound, when the toilets actually flush, but perhaps i am just to naive)
and my personal favorite - the blow dry system, truly unbelievable

As I encounter more features I will be sure to add them

June 14 - Akibara - the manga and anime captial of the world, also unforutunately porn as well

2009-06-14T17:21:00.001-07:00

Alivia loves all things Japanese. It started a couple of years ago when she had to do an assignment for class and ended up writing about Samurais in Japan. After that experience she started to teacher herself japanese and watching anime... essentially japanese cartoons. I had heard that Akibara was the heart of all things anime so we got on the subway to check it out. I also wanted to see if i could find something with Mario Bros for trace.

When you first get there it looks like any electronics district, but if you look behind the veil you see so much more. First what looks like a toy store is more than likely a gambling hall. It is all lit up with toy machines but also slot machines too. As we wandered, we really only saw men and after a few minutes I knew why.

We headed into our first shop and saw some anime figures. Only a few things mario and nothing trace would really like so we headed to the next store. There we found some t-shirts with mario, but they were all $50 which I just couldn't pull the trigger on especially when i could get the exact same t-shirt online for $15. We decided to keep looking Actually i decided, Alivia reluctantly came along.(that girl really does not like to shop!)

As we turned to go in our third store, i notices that there were blow-up dolls in the window. Yes! blow-up dolls and merkins. I was so embarrassed. I apologized to alivia, but she said she was used to it. It seems she had gone on line to look up anime and all these porn sites came up. She was unphased.

Needless to say we didn't stay much longer, but it really gave me a glimpse into the nether world of Japan. It is so fastidious and clean, almost sterile, but underneath the repression is another world. A world i was not going to explore with my 14 year old niece.

June 13th Tsukiji fish market -Sushi hits the spot

2009-06-13T06:43:00.000-07:00

Today Alivia and I woke up and made our way to Tsukiji Market. (www.tsukiji-market.or.jp/tuskiji_e.htm)This the famous fish market where if you get there between 5am and 7am you can see the world renowned tuna auction...we did not make it :-), regardless there is still plenty to do. We arrived around 10am and found ourselves already lost. You would think you would see an open port but like in most places in Tokyo there are very tall buildings everywhere. We finally found a warehouse so i just walked in. Alivia was very embarassed, as only a teenager could be but I figured this was the one time we could get away with the excuse that we were tourists, so i plowed us forward.

Once through the warehouse you saw hundred's of stalls, where they sell beautiful sushi knives (i may have to go back for one), clothing (handmade purses (I got one), fresh fruit, snacks and of course sushi. We were very hungry and I guess so was everyone else because there were lines for every "restaurant". These eateries are about the size of a large walk in closet thus the need to wait. We finally got a table about a half an hour later and it was worth it. Some of the freshest sushi i have ever had. Alivia had unagi (eel) on rice and it was yummy.

After the market, we made our way to Hama-rikyu Gardens, where alivia just fell in love with the Irises. I had no idea she loved flowers so much. She had never seen them so big and open and either had I. They were the most splendid colors of purple and white...some solid royal purple, some all white and then one that had almost a tiger print that was more light purple. So great my favorite color everywhere! I am really learning a lot about alivia. she is quite the outdoorsy girl. She loves flowers and quiet places. I do too. That is one thing we have in common. It is also something that Japan has a lot of as the city is full of places, outdoor to worship. The buddhist, shinto and confuscious influence is everywhere which is a wonderful respite from the hectic city. Wish new york had more of these.

We walked through most of the garden and saw a lovely geisha in an obi on a photo shoot. We took some great pictures as she strolled across the bridge. It was picture perfect and couldn't have been staged any better. As we walked by the water, small fish started to jump out of the lake, I assumed it was to catch insects that rested or flew over the water. In addition to the fish in the garden we saw lots of feral cats. Reminded me of greece as they were everywhere like pigeons. (in greece they call them rata, like rats) Alivia just loved seeing them. We also saw lots of temples and shrines. Which prompted alivia to say that she had seen enough temples for the day.

We then made our way back to the metro. At this point I wanted to make our way back to Asakusa as I had read about a famous cosmetics store which is one of the last places that sells kabuki and geisha products. they also have special make-up that is made out of nightengale droppings which Posh Beckham swears by. Can't wait to try bird pop on my face. (See more information below) We went back through Namikase arcade and bought some of the best mocchi i have ever had. they had some with bean past, some without. Loved, loved it. I especially like it without the bean paste, just gooey, chewing sweet rice paste. honestly yum!

From Asakusa we got back on the train and headed home. We were planing on going to the famous ferris wheel, but we were exhausted so just went back to the hotel and watch a lot of 24 the first season. (so glad jack's wife died, she was so annoying as was kim and sen. palmer's wife.) We ordered pizza in bed. Actually you can only have it in bed as there is no where to put food. The pizza was delicious. In fact the only restaurant in our hotel is an italian restaurant (how funny is that.) makes sense though as it is primarily a hotel for foreigners and the japanese love their noodles so it is a perfect fit.

Hyakusuke


	Address	2-2-14 Asakusa

	Location	Taito-ku

	Transportation	Station: Asakusa (3 min.). Just east of Nakamise Dori; walking toward Sensoji Temple, turn right after the last shop on Nakamise, pass the two Buddha statues, and turn right again at Benten-do Temple; the shop is on your right, across from the playground

	Phone	03/3841-7058


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Frommer's Review

For traditional Japanese cosmetics (kesho hin), come to Hyakusuke, a 200-year-old, family-owned shop. During the Edo Period, it did a brisk trade in teeth blackener (white teeth were considered ugly), but today it offers rather mundane products, as well as such traditional treatments as kombu to funori (a seaweed hair treatment), tsubaki (camellia) oil for healthy hair, and -- perhaps most interesting -- uguisu no hun, nightingale droppings that are said to leave your skin soft and smooth. Simply mix it with a little soap to wash your face. A purchase of ¥1,000 ($8.30/£4.20) will give you about a month of daily use. Makeup used by geisha and Kabuki actors is also sold here, attracting customers in these traditional professions, but I'm partial to face paper, used on humid days to blot away perspiration and grime. Open Wednesday to Monday from 11am to 5pm.

OMG this day was so cool! by Alivia Edwards- Friday June 12

2009-06-12T06:14:00.000-07:00

Today Tori and I went to the Ghilbi museum. Earlier Tori and I got up at about 1o: 42a or something like that. Well we walked across Shinjuku, to a hotel waiting to be picked up by Hato bus which was full of tourists. A few Brits and a whole lot of Americans. Then we were told that we were being taken to our tour bus. To get to Ghilbi we were guided by our sweet, English speaking tour guide Haruko.

We traveled by JR lines and then the subway, funny thing is, is that we went through Shinjuku station to get to the Ghilbi bus. Very circular. Haruko gave us some background on the experience, Hayao Miyazaki, the director of movies such as My neighbor Totoro and Spirited away, was aiming for when creating the museum/park. He wanted it to be for children, all about fun and play, tactile with the joy of losing yourself. There was not set direction to follow, the ground was pliable, it bended and was shock absorbent so if you fell, you were okay. You just found your own way and experience your own unique enjoyment.

Ghilbi is a very Eco-friendly environment which I loved. (Total Tree hugger ;). ) We saw how the the Studio works, how they painstakingly draw most cells, it takes 24 cells for one scond of film, and a lot of the director. The inspiration for the word Ghibli, comes from, (meteorology) A hot, dust-bearing, desert wind in North Africa, similar to the foehn. There is another source but I can't remember it now. Also known as chibli; gebli; gibleh; gibli; kibli. Miyasaki wanted to breath heat into the anime scene which is why he named his production company that.

Miyasaki is very attached to things that fly in air such as airplanes, dragonflies, etc. When creating with a deadline, he imagines that there is a dwarf like creature called a Ghilbi-ghilbi that sits on his shoulder to increase cold sweat on the animators before their dead line. He has ten in his old office that we walked through. (You have to find them as some are hidden)

We weren't allowed to take many photos for copyright reasons. Also Miyasaki, wanted kids to have free play so didn't want parents setting up cameras and slowing down the fun. (read: polite excuse to cover copyright infringement.) You get to see a short film. Ours was about a little girl on a journey and she keeps leaving apples for gods so as to stay safe. It was cute cause all the sound effects were made by human voices and when they made a sound, the kanji (japanese script) came up on screen as if it were part of the event. We also got a sneak peek of his new film, the place is a great marketing tool. Upon entering they also give you a couple of stills as your ticket, very cool - we got Kiki's Delivery and Hal's moving castle

After walking around we went to Straw Hat Cafe. Tori bought a Coffee with cream just to get a picture of the Ghibli logo design of the chocolate on top of the coffee. (Tori notes: it was so cool!) She got a little sick after the coffee she drank. She doesn't even like coffee really, just wanted the shot of the logo . After we left the museum with our guide Haruko, who did an excellent job of giving us background on the park, we headed back to Shinjuku via subway. We stopped at Tokyo center and the Tokyo Tower. It was cool. We got to go up the Tokyo Tower. The main floor and the special level (as high as you can go) are were we viewed the whole area of Japan. Seeing the sunset was amazing, it turn blood red for a few minutes; we went down to the ground level of the tower snapped a few shots of the tower at night which was majestic (almost rivals the Eiffel Tower, almost) and saw a hello kitty bus. One thing about Japan they put advertising everywhere. We then travelled to Roppogoni which is a place for ex-patriots which was more of an American western style place of Japan.

We ate at a little soba noodle restaurant where i got to share my Japanese speaking skills (which is nothing big really) by ordering the check. Once I asked for it the whole restaurant busted in a cheer. God I was so embarrassed. Tori keep telling me how amazed and proud of me she was. That didn't help my blush by getting any lighter. Interestingly, we saw the same tourists that we saw at the tower in the restaurant. Very erie. Finally we made it back to the hotel with sore feet and am really tired so blog ya later.
Ja ne, (later)

Alivia

June 11 2009 - Asakusa and our first temple

2009-06-11T03:04:00.001-07:00

Our first day in Japan. It was all so exciting that we slept in, but we forgave ourselves because it took us about 12 hours of flying, and 2 hours on a train to get to our destination.

Despite being small, our room at the Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku Hotel (which I highly recommend as a place to stay) was very comfortable. They provide you with full length Japanese sleep shirts which I just loved. (Alivia wouldn't wear hers) They also provided you with slippers, a refrigerator and all the necessary amenities. (e.g. toothbrush, conditioner, shampoo, etc.) Very nice hotel for a great price.

after we got up and showered, we walked around a bit. For some reason i was convinced that Tokyo was a small town and I soon found out that that wasn't the case. It seemed like we were getting no where and despite the landmarks be prominently placed on the map, they were quite hidden behind very large buildings. (We found this to be the place everywhere, you can see nothing from the street.) After going around in a few circles we got on the subway. This is where i fell in love with it, so easy just like the metro in paris, the metro in dc or the subway in ny.

We took the subway to Asakusa and as it turned out it was the perfect way to start our exploration of Japan. You get off the subway and the first think you see is the Thunder Gate. Beautiful and majestic, the gate is reddish orange (most of the shrines, etc. are this color) and there is a huge paper lantern in the center. When you stand underneath this lantern their is a seal at the bottom of dragons that was exquisite. once through the arch, you step into the famous Nakamisa arcade. This is a long row of shops that carry sweets, hello kitty, fans, etc. anything you would want to buy as a rememberance of your stay in Tokyo. Alivia and I each got a Momiji manju - the maple leave cake. You can see them make them right there and then they go into this conveyor belt that looks straight out of Pee Wee's Big Adventure. They go through this intricate system and then are wrapped individually. They were delicious, but we burned out tongues as we couldn't wait to eat them.

We made our way up the arcade, and there was a famous bronze incense burner. It was quite large and supposedly it cures any aliment if you have the smoke touch it. Many people stood around it, waving their hands into the smoke and guiding it to various parts of their body. Both Alivia and I stood in the smokes way too and it was very soothing.

We then continued walking up the main shrine. On our way, we were stopped several times by students on field trips. For some reason they were able to tell we were foreigners. I will never know how. They would come up to us and ask if we were americans. Then they would ask us question to practice their english. Jr. high and high school students are required to study english so some of them spoke it quite well. Unfortunately, like us, if you don't have people to talk to on an on-going basis you lose it. This happens often as english and japanese could not be further apart in alphabet, etc.

We spent a few more minutes at the shrine (unfortunately, it was under construction) We had had such a late start that there was not much more time to do anything else, so we made our way back to Shinjuku and ate at a little side restaurant. It is a very interesting system in japan for their "fast food". You go to what looks like a vending machine, put your money in and it gives you a ticket. You then sit down give the waitress your ticket and she then brings you your food. It was quite good, though not what i was expecting from the picture.

After dinner we made our way back to the hotel to get a good nights sleep as we knew we need to get more out of our days.

June 10, Alivia and Tori arrive in Japan

2009-06-11T02:21:00.000-07:00

Alivia and I flew out of Salt Lake on the 9th to portland (where we had a spectacular few of mount hood from the plane, it looked like we could almost touch the tip) then onto Narita. The flight was smooth sailing and we touched down around 5pm Japan time. We took the subway into the city and immediately I felt at home, having lived in Paris, Washington DC and New York I am no stranger to metros so navigating them in Japan has been a breeze, even if you get lost you can find a way back as every line is circular.

On the way in town a fellow traveler started talking to us. I am finding that very common as we clearly stand out as do all tourists due to the homogeneous nature of the country. The great part about clearly standing out is that everyone wants to help you, even before you ask. You just need to look lost, which is not hard for alivia and I because we usually are, and they offer to help. A very friendly country. Also the other tourists instantly reach out and there is an instant bond as we are clearly aliens in another world.

This traveler was a teacher from Miami and just an all around american. He was large, out of shape but sweet and very nervous about not knowing where he was going as well as was experiencing motion sickness from the jerking of the subway; it wasn't very smooth, the JR Lines are much more smooth. Funny thing is that he looked to us for help, he thought we looked very sure of ourselves, and we were able to with a little bit of help from a young Japanese boy who was returning from the states after studying in Las Vegas. Small world. I am not sure why I am entering this. Not a great story accept that I really want to try and capture all that we do.

As we made our way to the city, we had scenic views of rice paddies as far as the eye could see. There were even farmers in the paddies harvesting their crop; it was surreal. It reminded me of Maui when you wind your way through the sugar cane fields. Not that rice paddies look anything like rice paddies, just the idea that you are working your way through a staple of the island. Also the air felt to me like Maui and smelled like it too, thick, husky and wet; you could almost cut it with a knife.

I watched Aliva's face and she was trembling with excitement. I asked her if she was okay and she told me she was nervous but in a good way. It made me so happy to see how much she was and is enjoying her trip. It is very special that we get to share this together and I love watching her be exposed to something new. She is drinking it all in. It is also an honor to accompany her on her first foreign trip out of the US. What a way to start her international traveling. She has even told me that this trip is just the first of many and she will travel extensively before you moves here.

As we got closer to the city, the rice paddies melted away and soon we found ourselves on an elevated path that snakes through Tokyo. We passed little villages with traditional japanese homes mixed amongst modern abodes. The architecture of the traditional homes are simple but elegant; reminding me of my time in paris, not that they look anything like the buildings in paris, just the fact that i stared at them, took pictures of them as if they monuments thus necessitating that they be captured on film when reality they are very common, but to me they are not, to me they are foreign and unique. these homes that we passed had slanted roofs with metal shingles or ceramic tiles on top. They were all colors, blue, black and sometimes red and even the most rundown seemed regal. It took us about an hour to get in.

Finally we started to see larger skyscrapers. This is the tokyo you see in the movies. Large and ominous, however not as large as new york, to me they seemed almost quaint. (How obnoxious is that!) We arrived late in the evening so the sun was just setting and the neon lights were bright and noisy to the eyes. We exited at Shinjuku, which is home to the Time Square of Tokyo and again this Time Square has nothing on NY; ours is way more crowded and overwhelming with the neon lights and the close proximity of the buildings, so it is like a scaled down version of Manhattan...take that Japan. So many similarities with Manhattan, my other island. I seem to feel the most connection to islands. I had not realized the connection until now...maui, manhattan and now japan. Even alivia said she loves the water, so she is feeling the connection too!

the hotel we are staying at is the Sunroute Plaza Shinjuku Hotel. I wasn't expecting much as it is very cheap, but over joyed when we got there as it was quite elegant...a real find. The hotel is very close to Shinjuku station only a block and a half away so it is also perfectly situated. The station is accessible to the JR (Their trains that travel the entire distance of the country, and the Subway) We can get to literally anywhere from the station which is very comforting as even though it feels familiar, once you start walking around you realize it is not and that Tokyo is HUGE.

We walked up to the hotel and i was very happy to see such a beautiful lobby. Very classy. We checked in and proceeded to our room. Very small, very typical. It is not a room you would want to hang out in, not that it is a bad room, it is very nice, just a bit claustrophobic if you are in it too long. The bathroom is cool though, heated toilets with a bidet. Also very japanese, they really are into their toilets. (more on that later)

We were very tired so it was off to bed to rest up for our first day full day in Japan and I promise it gets a bit more exciting after this.