Sunday, June 21, 2009

Language

I love different languages and have studied a few.

Spanish - I lived in guadalajara in grad school. I got quite good, was even able to have an argument with our landlord entirely in spanish.

French - spent my spring semester, junior year in Paris. Loved it. My french was okay. helped me when I traveled to Monte Carlo

Japanese - I took a Japanese business class. I learned how to say thank you and my name is victoria, nice to meet you - Watsishi wa Victoria san des, doso huroshiku. used it in manchu picchu of all places as there were Japanese tourists there. they spoke to me rapidly but alas i could not understand them. I used it a little bit in Japan, but couldn't say much

Russian - i took a russian studies class from my favorite teacher of all - Ludmila Brott

Chinese - i am taking with my son Trace in 2009

Funny thing is, when I am in a different country and i don't understand the language, i revert to a mix of spanish and french, but predominately french. It is perfect because then no one can understand me, even myself ;-)

Mesclo todas las palabras en espanol y francais.

Saturday, June 20, 2009

June 20th, To Alivia -It was the best trip ever. (sung to Sponge Bob Squarepant's song "best day ever")

Dear Alivia -

Let me be the 10th one to welcome you to Utah. and yes it is a state and their are no leprechauns.

I have been planning this trip for over two years now and i honestly at one point wasn't sure it was going to happen. You were so understanding when I had to cancel last year, but then again you have always been gracious and mature beyond your tender years.

I just want you to know that i would not have wanted to have made this trip with anyone but you. The fact that you are teaching yourself Japanese and want to experience the world and are open to so many different and unique experiences makes you a wonderful traveling companion. It also delights me that you enjoy the things I do and that you are not living in fear and being sedentary. Nothing can stop you with that attitude. You will go very far and don't ever let anyone tell you that you can't or let them stand in your way. This world is yours for the taking.

I want you to know that I am so glad that I could be the first one to take you on your first international trip. I am so glad that we experienced Japan for the first time together! It was an amazing and life altering trip for me. (It is by far, hands down, the best trip I have ever taken)

I know this trip won't be the last time either one of us goes to Japan and i also know this won't be the last time we take on the world together. I look forward in great anticipation to what either of us will do next, either in tandem, or separately and sharing what unfolded.

As my wise iPod Mahjong game says (yes it list 72 asian proverbs, how funny that inspiration comes from that)

--Chinese proverb - a dog won't forsake his master because of his poverty: a son never deserts his mother for her homely appearance.

Oh wait, that is the wrong one :-). Here they are -

- GREAT SOULS HAVE WILLS. FEEBLE ONES HAVE ONLY WISHES.
- BE CALM AND TRANQUIL IN YOUR PURSUIT OF THE FINEST THINGS.

You can do anything ONCE you set your mind to do it, even if you have to do it by yourself... don't ever let anyone say you can't or get in your way. no one.

Where to next? I can't wait to find out!
I love you
Tori

Itinerary for My Next Trip to Japan

- On my next trip, i would like to visit when the cherry blossoms are blooming. Here else is some of the stuff I would like to do.

- Stay in a Machiya again
- go see the pearl divers
- See sumo wrestling match
- eat kobe beef
- see a samuri and/or ninja
- see a geisha
- tea ceremony
- travel in a rickshaw
- go to an onsen, a spa retreat - high end

In Tokyo
1) Visit the Snowdome museum and make one!
2) Stay in Shinjuku or perhaps a more upscale place - really liked the hotel though, very central and comfortable
3) Shibuya - People watching
- take a stroll in the afternoon to see all the teenager's outfits. Go to 109 Department store - a totally surreal mall for that cohort.
- Walk around on a saturday night It is the busiest neigborhood, famous for all the millions of people crossing the street.
3) Harajuku - People watching
- Walk down pedestrian only Harajuku street. (Sort of like St. Marks, NY through a looking glass.)
4) Go to Shingawa
5) Go back to Odaiba - the water front at dusk see the rainbow bridge, and ferris wheel (largest in the world)
6) Try/eat a okonomiyaki - translates to stuff you like, cooked together. It is a traditional way of eating where the table has a built-in-grill and you cook it yourself. It is across between a pizza and pancake.
7) go to the red light district see a little of the local color
8) go back to roppongi and mix with the ex-pats
9) go see the big Hello Kitty near the Isetan store, this is not to be confused with the Hello Kitty Precious section in the Isetan store itself. http://www.sanrio.co.jp/shoppinginjapan/english/shop/recommend.html#shop1
10) New York Bar in Park Hyatt - hotel from lost in translation. I am told that the view is amazing and expensive. Requires reservations. Drinks and appetizers are good.
11) Shinjuku park if cherry blossoms are blooming
12) Takashimaya food store
13) Lumine avoe south entrance, mocchi ice cream to die for.

Outside Tokyo
1) Ride the JR500, the fastest train in the world
Osaka - the Venice of Asia.
2) Kyoto - stay in the Gion district, explore more of the markets etc. Do not want to stay long though, felt very touristy.
3)Nara - biggest Buddha in the world
4) Nagano
5) Go back to Nikko - stay there
6) See Mt. Fuji - take a tram, the rope pulley
7) Beppu - supposedly the Las Vegas of Japan and very cheesy. Tutu and Grandfather went there.
8) Kamakura train station for the best saki, Taiyou zakari product of Niigata

Friday, June 19, 2009

June 20th Last day in Japan

Our Trip to Japan was amazing and action packed. We literally did not stop and in hindsight, though I would not change a thing, it was a tad aggressive. (But hey that is me! I just wanted to experience as much of Japan as i could and we did everything that was on my agenda. Thanks to Alivia and her patience and excellent subway/train navigating skills.) Our last day was just as agressive and action packed.

I decided much to Alivia's chagrin that i wanted to go to Hello Kitty for a couple of more gifts and to try to take a picture in front of the largest hello kitty in Japan. We were all packed and left our luggage at the front desk, where to stay one hour later i had to fill out a form and become a member for no charge. Crazy but I did it as I didn't want to have to spend a lot of time at the airport if we got there early and i didn't want to have to lug our luggage around which had grown substantially.

We left the hotel around 10:00a, our train was at 12:30 and our flight was at 3:40p, so we were in good shape. The first stop was takashimaya. I love the NY store and the one in Japan was amazing.

We waited outside for the doors to open. We then proceeded upstairs to the "japanese" section of the store, where i found the most beautiful Dragonfly fan. So appropriate, just lovely and delicate. It had the bold, dark colors and soft brown undertones that reminded me of my Tutu. I had been looking for one all along, but all i could find where pastel ones and they seem weak to me, not as vibrant or as "strong". I am so glad I waited, it was just meant to be.

After finding the fan, we went down to the basement where the famous food center is. We found all our favorite sweets, mochi balls, crepe cake, there were samples galore. I even at a display by accident, much to the embarrassment of my niece. It is also a full grocery store, where we bought fruit for $40 bucks. Not kidding, the japanese have to import most things, so it is very expensive to find fresh produce. I didn't help that we were in one of the most expensive stores on the island too. It was worth it however as I also found POG in a can. The sweet, corn-syrup nectar of hawaii. I had never seen it in cans. It is something that reminds me of Maui, my Tutu, and Grandfather, my whole family, good times, rest, love, Trace; it just seemed like another symbol that my Tutu was with me, as I always feel she is.

So we had had an exceptional run in takashimaya and we were all set to go, when I felt there was just one thing, one more thing, that we had to do which was get a picture with the largest hello kitty in Japan. I just thought it would be a great picture for Brynn, who loves hello kitty. So i had to go as I didn't want to leave Japan with anything feeling unfinished which is one of the reasons I made sure we went to all the places we did even if it was overwhelming and exhausting.

Unfortunately, I could not find the hello kitty store we were looking for. We went around and around, but never found it. I did go back and get several gifts I wanted at several of the other hello kitty stores we had previously been too, but the other one, where ever it was, openly mocked us as I could not find it nor could anyone assist us. The searching ate up a lot of time and now, instead of having plenty of time on our hands we were running late. so we headed back to the hotel and picked up our things, but the adventure was far from over.

I had been under the impression that it would only take us an hour to get to the airport, and that trains run their regularly, which would have gotten us there two hours beforehand. Instead it actually takes about an hour and a half. this is when i started to stress which was the only other time i had been under stress other than kyoto. We headed through the JapanRail booth and i picked up tickets. We made it to the track with about 15 minutes to spare and that is when i realized i had forgotten my sunglasses somewhere. Now normally i wouldn't care as much as i did, but these were prada glasses, costing about $400. I looked at Alivia and told her that i thought I had left them at the JR booth and that i was going to run back and get them. The look on her face was one of amusement and fear.

I took off running. People just stepped out of my way. It looked like a bad commercial. I finally made it to the counter and asked if she had seem my sunglasses. she smile sweetly and said yes they had them. She then went back and brought out paperwork to fill out. I was incensed they just saw me there with my sunglasses couldn't they just give them to me? she answered no so i filled out the forms while all the staff just watched and smiling that polite, infuriating smile.

finally i had my glasses and i flew back. Fortunately when i was heading over I found a shortcut, as I know i would not have made it back without it. When i arrived Alivia was relieved to see me but had to stop me as I was trying to board the wrong train. A few minutes later our train arrived and we were off.

The train ride was smooth and so much different then the one we took when we arrived. That was a rickety, local train, we were on the shinkinsen now. (I just love their rail system) I tried to relax but we were cutting it really close and I didn't want to have to pay to change our flight if we missed it; all because of hello kitty. Alivia was able to sleep. I just grit my teeth.

We finally made it to the airport and we had an hour to spare. Alivia and i both ran like carl lewis. Fortunately there were not real obstacles and alivia, who got very good with navigating Japan's transportation systems, helped us make good time by not letting me get us lost. We really were a good team and she is an excellent traveling companion. We made it to the ticket counter. I tried to check in but because i changed my name my passport can not be scanned. My heart jumped again, but we were soon helped and checked in with about 40min to spare. (You now have to be at the airport at least 45min before a flight or they won't take your luggage and unless you are going to abandon it, you also cannot take the flight. This is what stressed me out the most; that we would get there and would not be able to check our luggage)

Once we were checked in I calmed down and we made it to the gate and they were already boarding. All in all, it was perfect as we had very little downtime in the airport and i got to do all i wanted in Japan.

June 17 -part 1 Hiroshima the destruction is amplified by its surrounding beauty

This morning we left Tokyo and made our way to kyoto. Alivia and I are staying in Machiya which is a traditional japanese house that I found online. (www.kyoto-machiya.com)I was convinced that I was saying it like it was spanish, but they told me my pronunciation was pretty good. We found our way pretty easily from the Kyoto station in the light. (this is a writing technique foreshadowing the problems we will experience later.) Cameron met us, one of the people who work at the Machiya, and his english and japanese were both impressive. (I think he was british)

We dropped off our luggage and then we were off to Hiroshima. Now it may look close on the map, but it was actually about 2 hours away from Kyoto. (we covered a lot of ground. almost going the entire length of Japan) Fortunately we were on the express bullet train, so it was a pretty painless journey.

At hiroshima station, we misunderstood when they said to get number 2, we though the bus, they meant the tram. The first of many mishaps. We navigated our way to peace memorial park. we walked through the park which was lovely. We saw the tomb, where they put all the names of those who died. We saw the eternal flame that will not be extinguished until there is no more war. We also went to the children's park. It is quite famous. It is inspired by a little girl named Sadako who contracted Leukaemia after the bombing. At 10 years of age, she decided to fold 1000 cranes which are a sign of happiness and longevity. She never completed her task but her school mates did. Her quest received international recognition and cranes still arrive from all over the world. It made me cry to think of her suffering. Especially after seeing my Tutu suffer through cancer. I also think having a small child gives you a new perspective as it is just unbearable to think of a life, a one that has barely begun to live at that, suffering.

From there we made our way to the peace bell. You can go up and ring it. It is truly haunting. ( i love all the little chimes/ gentle sounds that are prevalent through Japan.) Anywhere inside the park you can see the A-dome. Just above it the bomb exploded. It looks like an Italian ruin. A hallow shell with some walls. The dome itself is a skeletal structure of twisted metal, though it is pretty much in tact. We sat in front of it for awhile and then made our way back to the bus to go to catch a ferry to Miyajima.

When we tried to get the bus, we realized we were a bit lost. Japanese people are so polite. The say yes to everything and really do try to help. the problem is they help even if they have no idea where to send you and since Japanese and English have no commonality, it can be very hard to communicate. This is why they always recommend if you are lost to talk to students as they most likely have some english speaking skills since they have to study it. But alas I digress.

We were told so many directions, when finally two women took us under their wing. They showed us the tram stop, which we had missed and realized there was a #2 bus and a #2 tram. After that we were golden. We took the tram to the little train station and bought Japanese donuts. Good but a little yeasty. Once you start traveling to miyajima you start to see the beautiful seaside. The surrounding area was beautiful and both alivia and i agreed that this was our favorite part of the trip. We took a ferry, the only one that is run by the JR line and included in our pass, and it was a tranquil, beautiful ride. It was such a juxtaposition that we just saw at the park and quite a different experience than the pirate ship. It did not feel overtly touristy just serene like you were experiencing a special taste of Japan. We did not get off of the ferry, we did not have a lot of time as we were hoping to get back to Kyoto before dark. We did see the island which has very tame deer roaming the streets. It was beautiful.

Thursday, June 18, 2009

Thank heaven for 7 eleven

international atms
ubiquitous
american

June 17 -Part 2 Hiroshima and getting hella lost in Kyoto. Our Machiya - old world style - modern amenities

After the ferry ride, we made our way back to Hiroshima more smoothly. remember we now know to take the tram. We were on our way to Kyoto. Unfortunately, we got on a local train and not the express, so it took us at least 3 hours to get back. This is the first time I was visibly and physically stressed in Japan. First we said we would be back before dark, it was now 9:00pm. We were not familiar with the city so had no relevant landmarks to guide us to get to our machiya. The machiya we were in is quite charming, but not a major hotel so it is hard for cab drivers to find. It is actually on a small one way street and up an alley. Oh boy.

At the connecting train station we stopped a woman who helped us as i wanted to call the machiya so they knew we were coming and not to go home. She was very friendly, turns out she studied dentistry at NYU such a small world. She was sweating profusely, it was very comical (she is my japanese version of claire). She was a godsend. And i do mean that. (Everywhere we went we were guided by an invisible force. It has been very comforting and i am convinced it is my Tutu. She is here with us and even now as i write I can feel her hug me and i am smiling.) She got a hold of the machiya and alerted them that we were on our way. She called me victoria-san, which was is a sign of respect and we thanked her profusely. Unfortunately she missed her train helping us, but I am convinced good karma is on her way.

Once in kyoto we grabbed a cab. The driver spoke no english and tried to drop us off on a random street was "close" to our home. I refused to get out of the cab until he took us to our front door/alley. He got very upset, but nothing looked familiar there was no way that i was going to put alivia and i on the street, in a strange town, no matter how safe Japan is and how pissed off the cab driver got. We made him go around, as i gestured pretending i was using a steering wheel and pointing. Finally we were completely lost and you could tell he new it too. I asked him to call, we had cards for the machiya in english and japanese, but he refused, so I flagged down someone on the street as our cab driver was trying to evict us. Another godsend he go the machiya and they told him where to go. We arrived in front of the office and there was cameron. I have never been more thankful or happy to see someone. We paid the cab driver and Cameron said it was smart we did not get out. All the streets look the same, narrow, extremely narrow like paris, and one way.

Cameron walked us over to our house and we loved it at first site. A traditional japanese house with sliding doors and a garden. He oriented us and then had me sign a rental agreement. it seems that they have to act as a real estate company as they are not a hotel, not a ryokan (which i did not want to stay in a communal setting) and are not up to fire standards, the stairs are traditional and extremely steep and the door ways are low, nothing I didn't know. They had me sign an entire agreement in Japanese. I may have signed away my first born, sorry Trace it has been a great ride. We then took a tour and he set up the wireless, the air conditioner and the mosquito repellent as we are getting into the rainy season. Just asked us to watch our head, to not turn on the hot plate as they have had accidents before (read: fire), how to use the mircowave and he left.

The house is just stunning. Japanese caligraphy lines the walls. a small, but pretty rock garden when you look at it through the sliding doors. A cedar bathroom that smelled wonderful with a big cedar bath. A toto toilet that did everything for you, including blow drying your but. (one unique thing after you flush the tank fills up by a porcelain spout that extends outside the toilet and like a faucet refills the tank.) A sunken kitchen with a fridge. the whole house is a beatiful rich dark wood. The stairs are very steep, it is almost like you are walking vertically. The best is the bedroom, with the tatami beds on the floor. they are draped, as was the hotel on the regular bed, with a large fabric sash that makes the bed look like it is gift wrapped. By then we were so exhausted so went to sleep. and all and all i can say the agony, the fear of being lost was worth this special experience of staying in a traditional style home.